Costume Of Prelates Of the Catholic Church according to Roman Etiquette. By The Rev. John A. Nainfa S.S. Part 18.

CHAPTER VIII. MANTELLETTA

1. Description. — 2. A Sign of Non-Jurisdiction and High Prelature; Materials and Colors. — 3. Religious Prelates; Titular Protonotaries and Vicars General and Capitular. — 4. Mantelletta of Canons.

1. The mantelletta (that is short mantle), is a sleeveless garment of silk or woolen material, reaching almost to the knees, used by Prelates to cover the rochet The mantelletta is open in front and fastened at the neck with a hook, and its collar fits round the collar of the cassock; two vertical slits permit the insertion of the arms. When extended, it forms a complete circle. The trimmings of the mantelletta (lining, stitchings, etc.) are all of silk, and a silk strip should be sewed around the armholes in order to prevent them from tearing. It is to be remarked that the lining and trimmings of the purple mantelletta should be crimson red, and never purple, as is often seen.

2. The mantelletta is a symbol of restricted jurisdiction, or of non-jurisdiction, or of high Prelacy. A Prelate, who possesses full "ordinary jurisdiction," does not, as a rule, wear this garment within the limits of his jurisdiction. (a)

The Pope does not make use of the mantelletta, because his jurisdiction is universal. Cardinals do not wear it outside of Rome; but they wear it in Rome on account of the Pope's presence. (b) However, in their own titles, where their jurisdiction is not limited, they do not make use of the mantelletta. (c)

An Archbishop or a Bishop, outside of the territory of his jurisdiction, should not wear the rochet, unless it is covered with the mantelletta. (d) Therefore, all Titular Archbishops and Bishops, as well as Residential Bishops outside of their own dioceses, should not appear in their choir-habit without the mantelletta. (e) Even in his own diocese, a Bishop sometimes wears the mantelletta, namely in the presence of a Cardinal, (f) of the Apostolic Delegate, or of the Metropolitan. In such cases, he puts on the mantelletta under the mozzetta; but, if the Cardinal be a Legate a latere, the Bishop puts aside the mozzetta and keeps only the mantelletta over the rochet. (g) In no other case should the mantelletta be worn by a Bishop within the limits of his own diocese. (h)

As a symbol of high Prelature, the mantelletta is worn by those Prelates who occupy the first rank at the Roman Court and are, for that very reason, called "Prelates di mantelletta." Such are the Protonotaries Apostolic di numero, supernumerary and ad instar; the Auditors of the Rota; the Clerks of the Reverend Apostolic Camera; the Voters and Referees of the Signature; the Abbreviators of the Major Park; and such Domestic Prelates as do not belong to a "College?" (i)

3. The mantellette of the Cardinals are of three different colors, red, purple, and rose-colored, agreeing with the colors of their cassocks. The red and purple mantellette are of cloth in winter and of watered silk in summer. The rose-colored mantelletta, as well as the cassock of that color, is reserved for the Sundays of Qaudete and Laetare, and should be of watered silk.

Silk is not permitted as the material for the mantelletta of Bishops, (j) unless they be "Assistants at the Pontifical Throne." The ordinary episcopal mantelletta is of cloth or merino, according to the season, and purple or black, as may be called for by the Liturgy. The same rules hold good for the color of the mantelletta as for that of the choir cassock. The purple mantelletta is always trimmed and lined with crimson red silk; and the black mantelletta, with purple.

The Bishops Assistants at the Pontifical Throne, while living in Rome, and the Prelates di mantelletta, both in Rome and outside, wear the costume prescribed by the etiquette of the Papal Household, which includes a silk mantelletta in summer and one of woolen cloth in winter. The color of this mantelletta is always purple, except during the vacancy of the Holy See, and on Good Friday, when it is replaced by a black cloth mantelletta, trimmed and lined with purple silk. (k)

4. Cardinals and Bishops who belong to Religious Orders wear a mantelletta of a color like that of the outer part of the habit of the Order. (l) Abbots generally follow the same rule.

Cardinal Burke in Choir Dress

The Titular (or Honorary) Protonotaries Apostolic have the privilege of wearing the mantelletta; but their mantelletta is exclusively of black woolen material, lined and trimmed with black silk, purple being absolutely prohibited to them, as they are but diocesan Prelates. (m) Before the motu proprio of Pius X. (February 21, 1905), they had no right to make use of the rochet, and consequently they wore the mantelletta directly over the choir cassock; but, by that motu proprio, Pius X. conceded them the privilege of wearing the rochet under the black mantelletta. By the same act, the Pope entitled all the Vicars General and Vicars Capitular of dioceses, during the time they are in office, to the rank, costume and privileges of Honorary Protonotaries Apostolic ("Black Protonotaries") ; the choir dress of these dignitaries consists, therefore, of a black choir cassock, the rochet, and the black mantelletta; unless they hold higher rank in the Prelature, in which case they wear the costume proper for the class of Prelates to which they belong. (n)

5. Some Chapters have obtained the special privilege of wearing the mantelletta; (o) but, in this case, the mantelletta is not a sign of Prelacy; it is only a part of their insignia as Canons. As such, it can not lawfully be worn outside of the diocese, nor should its use be extended beyond the express terms of the indult of concession.

(a) Caer. Episc. I., i., 1.—I., Iv., 7.

(b) Un Eveque Suffragant op. cit, p. 4.— Barbier di Montault, op. cit., Tom. I., p. 351.— Grimaldi, op. cit., ch. VIII., p. 112.—Other authors.

(c) The same references.

(d) Caer. Episc. I., i., 2, 8.—I., iv., 7.—All authors.

(e) S. R. C, Sept. 23, 1842, in Laburnen.

(f) Caer. Episc. I., i., iv., 2, 3, 7.

(g) Caer. Episc. I., i., iv., 7.

(h) S. R. C, Sept. 18, 1666, in Orestan.

(i) A. Battandier, Annuaire Pontifical (yearly).— "Gerarohia" (yearly).— Baart, The Roman Court, p. 277.— Grimaldi, op. cit, eta. V., pp. 58, seq.

(j) Caer. Episc. I., i., 1.—I. iii., 1.

(k)  Barbier di Montault, op. cit., Tom. I., p. 352, n. 4.

(l) Caer. Episc. I., i., 4.

(m) Const. Inter multiplices (Feb. 21, 1905), n. 64.

(n) Const. Inter multiplices n. 62.

(o) 'The chapter of the Cathedral of Rodez (France) and several Chapters in Italy have been granted that privilege.

Costume Of Prelates Of the Catholic Church according to Roman Etiquette. By The Rev. John A. Nainfa S.S. Part 15.

CHAPTER V. Cloak.

1. Use. — 2. Material and Shape. — 8. Cloak of Simple Priests and Other Inferior Clergy. — 4. Cloak of Prelates. — 5. Cardinals. — 6. Winter Cloaks.

1. The Roman cloak, which is given, by our clerical tailors, its Italian name of ferraiolo or ferraiolone, (a) is the necessary complement of the ecclesiastical habit, and is worn by all members of the clergy.

In this country, it can hardly be worn, except on solemn occasions, when the full clerical costume is required and admitted, for instance, at banquets, entertainments, receptions of distinguished guests, academic solemnities, etc., etc.

The Roman cloak is required also for the priest or Prelate who delivers a funeral oration ; (b) for the judges of the episcopal court (c) and the examiners of the clergy, whenever they have to discharge the duties of their office.

Priests and Prelates acting as mourners at a funeral take their place in the procession in the mourners' rank, wearing the Roman cloak.

The Chaplains (Familiares) of the Bishop, at Pontifical Mass and other solemn services, should serve in black cassock and cloak, not in surplice. (d)

The cloak,  ferraiolo 

(also ferraiuolo, ferraiolone)

2. The cloak must be made of light material. It is very large, so that it falls in graceful folds about the body from the shoulders to the feet. At the neck, it is tied with two ribbons, and a large stiff collar folding back over the shoulders gives a complete finish to the garment. The cloak should have no lining, except at the collar.

3. The cloak of simple priests and other members of the inferior clergy, is always black and made of light woolen material.

4. The cloak of the Prelates di mantellone is exclusively made of black silk, as well as that of Bishops and Prelates di mantelletta, when they wear their black cassock, trimmed with purple. (e)

Prelate wearing ordinary cassock, cincture
and cloak ("ferraiolone")

Priest wearing the Winter Cloak.

At other times, Bishops and Prelates di mantelletta wear a purple cloak made of plain silk. (f)

5. Cardinals have two different cloaks; one, of scarlet watered silk, for ordinary occasions; the other, purple, worn during penitential seasons and in times of mourning. But this purple cloak differs from that of Bishops in that it is made of watered silk and trimmed with red silk. (g)

The cloak of Prelates belonging to Religious Orders is of the same color as the outer part of the religious habit, as was indicated in the chapter treating of the cassock. There may be found exceptions to this general rule, for the costume of Religious Prelates is regulated by local traditions rather than by strict etiquette; but the rule given here is that followed at the Roman Court and adopted by nearly all Religious Prelates outside of Rome.



6. In winter, Prelates may use a large cloak with a cape attached, over which cape the collar of the cloak is folded back. This cloak is not a garment of etiquette, it is worn only for protection from cold. (h) That of the Pope is made of red cloth. All other Prelates wear the same, made of cloth, red or purple for Cardinals, according to the season, purple or black for Bishops and Prelates di mantelletta, also according to the season, and black for all others. (i)

The winter cloak of the Pope, Cardinals and Patriarchs is bordered with gold.

(a) There exists a difference between the ferraiolo and the ferraiolone. The ferraiolo is the cloak which Is worn in the streets of Rome and other cities of Catholic countries, while the ferraiolone, which is larger and more solemn, is reserved for public occasions.—The word "ferraiolo" should not be corrupted Into "feriolo," as is often done In catalogues of clerical tailors.

(b) Caer. Episc. I., xxii.,  6.—II., xi., 10.—Un Eveque Suffragant, op. cit., p. 295.

(c) Unless It is provided otherwise by diocesan statutes.

(d) Caer Episc. I., xi. t 2-12.—I., xv., 2.— Levavasseur, Fonctions Pontificales (Edition 1904), p. 263.

(e) When walking in private, Cardinals, Bishops and Prelates commonly wear an ordinary cloak of black woolen material (ferraiolo).

(f) This cloak should be of plain purple silk, without red trimmings.

(g) Barbier De Montault, op. cit., pp. 107, 108.—Grimaldi op. cit., Ch. VIII., p. 118.

(h) Barbier De Montault, op. cit., Tom. I., p. 108.—This cloak is the one which our clerical tailors call sometimes "confessional cloak," and sometimes "simarra;" should not have a velvet collar, and should be of the same length as the cassock.

(i) According to often repeated principles, the winter cloak of Religious Prelates is of the same color as the outer part of the habit of the Order.

Costume Of Prelates Of the Catholic Church according to Roman Etiquette. By The Rev. John A. Nainfa S.S. Part 3.

PART I. 

GENERAL PRINCIPLES.

CHAPTER I. PRELATURES. continued.

Patriarchs and Primates.

Although, by divine institution and ordination, Bishops are all equal, yet Ecclesiastical Law has introduced certain modifications in episcopal authority, by virtue of which, some Bishops are superior to others, exercising over them a real authority, a participation, as it were, of the supreme Prelacy of the Sovereign Pontiff. Such are Patriarchs, Primates, Archbishops' or Metropolitans. (a)

Literally, the word Patriarch means a "Chief of Fathers." The appellation is very ancient. The title of the early Bishops being that of "Father," their leaders were quite naturally called "Patriarchs."

This title of Patriarch was first given to the Bishops of Rome, Alexandria and Antioch, three episcopal sees the foundation of which is ascribed to St. Peter. (b)

To these three patriarchal sees were soon added the bishopric of Jerusalem, on account of the life, death, and resurrection of our Lord, and the bishopric of Constantinople, on account of the new importance given to the city as the residence of the Roman Emperor. (c)

But since the cities, in which the Eastern patriarchal sees were established, have fallen under the domination of infidels or schismatics, the Popes, in order to keep alive the memory of these illustrious sees, have continued to appoint Latin Patriarchs, who enjoy not only the titles of these sees, but the prerogatives and privileges of the patriarchal rank as well. However, they have no jurisdiction over the territory of their patriarchates. These great Prelates are called "Titular Patriarchs." (d) Pius IX. made an exception to the usual practice, when he allowed the. Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem a residence in his patriarchal city, and invested him with metropolitan jurisdiction over Jerusalem and its vicinity. (e)

Besides these Latin patriarchs, there are, in the East, Catholic patriarchs of the different rites, all of them having over their subjects the same traditional authority as the ancient patriarchs of the Eastern Church. Such are: the Patriarch of Antioch for the Melchites, residence at Damascus; the Patriarch of Alexandria for the Copts, residence at Cairo (Egypt); the Patriarch of Antioch for the Maronites, residence at Bikorchi (Lebanon); the Patriarch of Antioch for the Syrians, residence also at Bikorchi; the Patriarch of Babylon for the Chaldeans, residence at Mossul (Mesopotamia), and the Patriarch of Cilicia for the Armenians, residence at Constantinople. (f)

Cleric mantelletta
(by Membres d's Êtats d'Jèrri Jour d'la
Libéthâtion 2009) 

Several Bishops in the Western Church have also been granted the title and honors of Patriarchs. These are the Patriarch of Venice (Italy); the Patriarch of Lisbon (Portugal); the Patriarch of the West Indies, who is the Chaplain Major of the Spanish Army (at present the Archbishop of Toledo, Spain); and the Patriarch of the East Indies, who is the Archbishop of Goa in India. (g) These are known as "Minor Patriarchs."

Primates were Bishops having authority or jurisdiction over the Archbishops of a country or of a considerable portion of a country. Nowadays, the jurisdiction of Primates has practically ceased, though some Bishops have kept the title, a merely honorary one. Such, for instance, are the Archbishop of Armagh, "Primate of All Ireland;" the Archbishop of Dublin, "Primate of Ireland;" the Archbishop of Lyons, "Primate of Gaul;" the Archbishop of Gran, "Primate of Hungary," etc. (h) In the Eastern Church, the corresponding title was that of Exarch (i)

Mozzetta. Picture by http://www.ukvestments.co.uk/

Primates have no special privilege with regard to the prelatical costume; but Patriarchs possess a certain number of distinctions which mark externally their high dignity:—All Patriarchs are Assistants at the Pontifical throne; they rank immediately after Cardinals, and have the privilege of wearing, even in Rome, the mozzetta over the mantelletta; their winter cloaks are adorned with a border of gold; etc.

(a) Pius IX., Constit Reversurus (July 9, 1867).

(b) Phillips, Du droit ecclesiastique, Tome II., p. 25.

(c) Phillips, loc, cit.

(d) Bennetis, Privil. S, Petri, p. 134.— Phillips, op. cit, Tome II., p. 45.

(e) Constit. Nulla celebrior, July 22, 1847 (Pius IX.).

(f) Mgr. Battandier, Annuaire Pontifical, 1906.—See also Gerarchia, yearly.

(g) Phillips, loc. cit, p. 47.— Battandier, op. cit.

(h) Bouix, De Episc, Part IV., sect 1, chap. 2.

(i) Ferraris, Bibliotheca canonica, art.